Let’s face it.\u00a0 In the past we all just tapped into the lights on our bikes.\u00a0 And it was not a problem.\u00a0 However, the number of computer module controlled lighting and electronics is on the rise.\u00a0 So why is this a big deal?<\/p>\n
These bikes monitor circuits in such a way that most have a minimum and maximum current draw for each circuit.
\nWhen the circuit does not meet the minimum load, the computer thinks it is not connected or operating correctly.
\nToo much load and the computer thinks that there is a short.
\nIn either case, the computer can shut down the circuit as a method of protection.\u00a0 Sometimes you will get a notification on dash.\u00a0 Sometimes not.\u00a0 Depends on your bike and the circuit in question.<\/p>\n
Here is the kicker.\u00a0 If you damage the circuit, computer, wiring or it’s associated components, and the dealer can see where a wire is or was tapped, they can void your warranty.\u00a0 And tapped can include some other manufacturers ‘plug & play” wiring if the power is directly pulled from the bikes wiring.\u00a0 And this is happening more often as dealers and vehicle manufacturers attempt to control costs.\u00a0 The cost of one of the 10 control modules on the 2018+ Goldwing runs between $300 to $1000.\u00a0 So how do you avoid damage to the bike’s wiring, modules and your warranty?\u00a0 Isolation.<\/p>\n
By using a trailer isolation package, you make the trigger connections (tail, brake and signals) all plug & play.\u00a0 The actual power is taken from the battery and not the bike’s wiring.\u00a0 This is the correct way.<\/p>\n
But how do you use the trailer isolator to power all of your accessory lights?\u00a0 With our Lighting Distribution Block.\u00a0 You are only using less than half of your isolators capacity.\u00a0 And since all accessory lighting is basically LED, the amount of load is easily managed.\u00a0 Take the output from your isolator and connect it to the Lighting Distribution Block.\u00a0 Then connect your trailer and your accessory lights to the block.<\/p>\n
This Lighting Distribution Block is extreme duty in every sense of the term.
\n1.\u00a0 Each circuit is capable of a sustained 10 amps with very heavy silver .
\n2.\u00a0 We doubled up the number of grounds to accommodate all the other circuits.
\n3.\u00a0 The lower and upper connection points are staggered so that you do not have to remove one to install another.
\n4.\u00a0 The connection points use a ‘screw-cage clamp’ design.\u00a0 Of the 3 types available, this is not only the most expensive, but the best possible design.\u00a0\u00a0As\u00a0the clamp is tightened, the nickel-plated cage\u00a0rises, pressing the wire firmly against the busbar, ensuring solid connections every time.\u00a0 And unlike the ‘screw clamp’ design, the wire strands will not be crushed by the screw causing the wires to be severed.
\n5.\u00a0 The base is fully encapsulated to stop moisture from making contact with the circuit board.
\n6.\u00a0 Thick walled base with mounting ears.
\n7.\u00a0 Length – 4″ , width – 2 1\/16″, height – 1 3\/4″.
\n8.\u00a0 Included is a splitter for your ground wire.\u00a0 The distribution block has 2 rows for ground, so we include the splitter to cover both inputs.<\/p>\n
If your bike already has a trailer isolator, you will not need anything other than the Lighting Distribution Block.\u00a0 If you do not have trailer isolation, please click on the ‘VEHICLES’ tab above to see the plug & play options we have available.<\/p>\n
Note; if your trailer is a 4 wire system, you will end up with brake lights on your turn signal functions.\u00a0 Obviously not a good mix.\u00a0 We suggest adding separate turn signals to your trailer as it gives you more visibility.<\/p>\n
Made in USA.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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